About the Book

About the Author

Title Page


The Projects


Beautiful BILLY BESTÅ Behemoth


Modernist Tea Trolley


Hexagon Shelving Unit


Kitchen Island


Half-Wall Lamp


Sweet STOLMEN Window Seat


Custom Spotlight Vanity


Double Murphy Bed


Headboard Storage


String-Sided Cabinet


MALM Chest with Pullout Laptop Table


Built-In Home Office


Bookshelf Sofa Table


Easy TV Unit


Junior Double Loft Beds


Corner Bookcase


Mid-Century–Style Media Cabinet


Cabin Bed with Hidden Den


Hanging Lamp


Working Together Dual Workstation


Suspended Shelving


Headboard and Picture Tree


Mudroom Bench


Brick Cottage Dollhouse


Disguised Laundry Basket




It was June 2006. I was browsing a home decor website looking for ideas to furnish my new apartment. It was then I saw my first IKEA® hack. Up until that moment, I’d always thought of furniture as static—I buy a bed, I get a bed. The article I stumbled across featured a guy who’d bought 2 IKEA® PAX wardrobe sliding doors and made them into a room divider. I didn’t know you could do that! I began searching for more hacks, and each find made me more excited than the last. People were doing strange things to IKEA® products, and I loved it!

After a few days, I had collected a handful of hacks from various parts of the World Wide Web. “How wonderful if they could all be housed on one site, for all IKEA® fans to enjoy,” I thought to myself. I wasn’t sure if anyone else was as crazy about weird IKEA® mods as I was, but with what little blogging skills I had, I started anyway. I updated it as regularly as I could find hacks and didn’t think too much about it. As it turned out, a whole lot of people were into hacking, and they started sharing their creations with me. From there, IkeaHackers grew and grew.

Now, you may ask, “What’s an IKEA® hack?” In its simplest terms, it’s a modification of an IKEA® product. In no way does the term “hack” infer that the mods are sloppily done. Rather, the name suggests that the hackers “break into” the IKEA® “code” of furniture assembly and repurpose, challenge, and create with new results.

People hack IKEA® for many reasons: some to get exactly what they want, some for economic reasons, some for style. Reasons abound. But whatever the reason is, you can be sure it’s fun to slice and dice mass-produced flat-pack furniture into something totally different.

This book is to help you do just that.

We’ve put together some of the biggest and best IKEA® hacks from all over the world. Our hope is that they’ll expand your imagination and trigger you to see what’s possible with RAST, FROSTA, BILLY and friends. Our sneaky intention is you’ll to walk into IKEA® and never see their furniture the same way again. Because it does not have to be.

The book has projects suitable for every level of skill. Some of the projects are easy, while some are tougher to do. Some need nothing more than a drill, while others may require an assortment of tools. Browse through the book and start with projects closer to your ability, then level up as your DIY confidence grows.

As with all DIY projects, safety comes first. In the projects, you may come across steps and tools that you’re unsure of. In such instances, please seek help from an expert DIYer. All electrical work should be handled by a professional to ensure compliance to safety regulations. Do check IKEA®’s instructions on the safe use of their products. Please take the precaution to securely anchor all cabinets to the wall. Always make sure that the hacked item is safe for you and those who will use it. Please remind yourself to always err on the side of safety.

Finally, I hope this book inspires you to create IKEA® hacks of your own. There’s always something new in IKEA® waiting to be hacked. You could be the one to do so. And I’ll be here to share your IKEA® hack with the world.

Happy hacking,


NOTE: IKEA® product measurements are given in width x depth x height. US lumber measurements are given in height x width x length.


Jules Yap is a creative soul at heart. As far back as she can remember, she has always been crafting, writing, and making things from whatever she could lay her hands on. Her creativity led her toward the advertising industry, where she clocked in as a copywriter and out as creative director, 15 years later. She founded in 2006, which spurred the IKEA hacking movement and turned hacking into a home decorating staple. To date, her site houses more than 6,000 IKEA hacks, the largest collection of IKEA® hacks anywhere on the Internet. Her blog has been featured in leading home decorating websites, books, and magazines. She lives in Selangor, Malaysia, in a two-room apartment filled with IKEA® hacks. "My home is full of IKEA®, but no one ever felt like they’ve stepped into the showroom," she says. "In fact, people are usually surprised when I tell them, ‘That’s an IKEA® hack!’ I see IKEA® not as the end but the means to an end. It’s about self-expression and fun."



Think Outside the Flat-Pack Box

Jules Yap and the contributors to her wildly popular website show you how to transform affordable IKEA products into creative new furniture and more. With clear instructions and easy to follow photos, you’re sure to have fun building these exciting hacks including:


Tony Tapia and Scott Vedder

Apopka, Florida

This hack combines BESTÅ and BILLY frames in the same project. This is a unique challenge because the heights and depths of both collections are different. Matching them up requires cutting the BILLY frames to the right height and then boosting the BESTÅs to match. No worries, though! This project can be completed by anyone with a sense of adventure, a little know-how around a few power tools, and plenty of time and patience. At the end, Tony and Scott wound up with a custom piece that looks professionally built but cost less than $1,400.

When this hack was assembled, VASSBO doors were offered. If available, use 14 assorted BESTÅ VASSBO doors. However, VASSBO is unavailable in most markets, but SINDVIK is the most similar style of door currently found at IKEA® locations.

IKEA® Home Furnishings

2 BESTÅ frames, 23⅝×15¾×75⅝ inches (60×40×192 cm)

3 double BESTÅ frames, 23⅝×15¾×25¼ inches (60×40×64 cm)

3 single BESTÅ cabinets, 23⅝×15¾×15 inches (60×40×38 cm)

2 BILLY bookcases, 15¾×11×79½ inches (40×28×202 cm)

16 assorted SINDVIK doors and drawer fronts, to fit

OXBERG panel doors to fit BESTÅ frames, 15¾×75⅝ inches (40×192 cm)

BESTÅ rails

two 4-piece DIODER light strip sets (optional)


10 2×4-inch (5×10¼-cm) boards, 96 inches (243¾ cm) long

electric circular saw, blade diameter at least 6½ inches (16½ cm)

1½-inch (38-mm) wide-thread multipurpose screws

wood glue

painter’s tape (optional)

builder’s caulk


nail gun (optional)

1-inch (2½-cm) furring strips, 24 feet (7¼ meters)


2-inch (51-mm) rotary bit

baseboard trim

crown molding



1. Build all of the BILLY and BESTÅ frames according to the assembly instructions.

2. Make a rectangle base for each of your 75⅝-inch-wide BESTÅ frames using the 2×4s. Measure the bottom of the BESTÅ to determine the dimensions of the rectangular base; it should match the dimensions of the base of the BESTÅ exactly. Each base should consist of four boards, cut to size using a circular saw, then screwed together at the corners at right angles. Attach the bases to the bottom of the BESTÅ units with wood glue.

3. Lay the first BESTÅ on its right side and then place a BILLY horizontally on top of the BESTÅ. Align the tops and faces of the cabinets so they are flush. Temporarily attach the frames together using the inter-cabinet connector screws included with the BESTÅ. You can also use painter’s tape to hold them together.

4. You’ll notice that the foot of the BILLY extends about ¾ inch past the adjoining BESTÅ and its rectangular base. Make a mark on the BILLY indicating where the bottom of the BESTÅ base ends, and then use the circular saw to cut the BILLY frame to the marked length.

5. Attach the BILLY and BESTÅ together using glue and screws as needed. Align the bases of both pieces so that the towers stand level when finally assembled. The completed piece will be one of the side towers.

6. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 to create the second side tower, but lay the BESTÅ on its left side rather than its right side to ensure symmetrical towers. At the end of this step, you should have two sets of BILLY/BESTÅ side towers for the outer ends of the installation.


7. To assemble the central pedestal, attach three double BESTÅ cabinets together using the screws included in the BESTÅ packaging. You can add builder’s caulk between the cabinets for added strength.

8. Create a wooden base for the central pedestal to match the bases on the side towers. This will also raise the pedestal off the floor, allow room for the doors, and make it easier to attach baseboard trim later. Create and attach a rectangular base to the central pedestal using the same technique as described in Step 2. This should require no more than three of your 96-inch 2×4s. Attach the bases with glue. Keep the central pedestal and side towers separate.


9. To create the suspended bridge portion of the design, attach the remaining three BESTÅ units to the wall using the IKEA® BESTÅ rails, following the assembly instructions.


10. After the bridge is anchored safely on the wall, combine the other completed units into a single built-in. Center the pedestal underneath the bridge, then align the side towers so they are symmetrical and snug against the center pedestal and the bridge. Screw and glue each unit to the next.

11. Add baseboard trim and crown molding to the unit to match the rest of the house and to cover the bases of each unit. Use the measurements of the installation as a guide for cutting the molding. Miter the baseboard and molding corners using a circular saw. Attach the baseboard trim, using a nail gun if available, to the rectangular bases and along the front of the bottoms of the BILLY cabinets using a nail gun. Attach 1-inch furring strips to the top of the installation, then attach the crown molding on top of that.

12. Attach doors that correspond to the BESTÅ unit sizes and match your design vision and needs. The doors are attached to the BESTÅ frames by using the hinges included in the IKEA® packaging.

13. Optionally, attach DIODER light strips in any glass compartments. Place the LED strips on the inside of the door near the hinges, using the adhesive included in the IKEA® packaging. To hide the cables, drill a ½-inch hole in the top of each frame where the lights are being installed and run the cables through. Hide all of the cables and switches behind the cabinet. The switches can be installed inside the left BILLY frame using a 2-inch circular drill bit to open a 2-inch circular hole in the back wall of the BILLY. You can then pass the switches and wires through the hole. The switches will be accessible, while the cables are neatly stashed away out of sight behind the unit.


About the Contributors